The Pusher Man

Well, if you want someone to buy a bike from you in Peru because the biking is so amazing, I guess you ought to take them for a ride. So it was with me and Dougie Stewart today. Dougie is the proprietor of Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking Peru, a first rate mountain bike tour company right here in Cusco. After this first taste, I am afraid I am hooked.

Dougie is a Sottish ex-pat with two young children, one of whom is named Sophia and goes to the same school as our Sophia. Dougie suggested I bring our Sophia over to play whilst we go for a ride and I test-ride one of his 70 Kona mountain bikes. I showed up with my child, pedals, shoes and shorts, borrowed a helmet, and boarded the ascent vehicle -- a haggard sky blue SUV with a custom welded rack on top meant to carry six bikes. I must admit I was a bit freaked out by the fact that everyone but me was packing body armor and full face helmets. Hmmm, I wondered, what exactly was I getting myself into?


After driving up to around 12,500 feet, we disembarked next to a tiny roadside village. The bikes were lowered off the roof of the vehicle, helmets and gloves were donned, and we did a quick spin around the parking lot. I was riding with Dougie, his business partner Paul, and two of their Peruvian guides. The one word of advice I received was to lean back behind the saddle on the big drops. OK, I thought, I can do that. And then we were off, bombing down a rutted ribbon of singletrack winding through a grassy meadow.

I found the first drop somewhat by surprise, and with a slight, involuntary, guttural noise emanating from my throat, made it over. The bike rode like an easy chair. I felt a bit like a kid bouncing in the moonwalk at the county fair. Big air, but soft landings. The terrain was unbelievable. Amazing single track surrounded by sun dappled peaks in every direction. Nerve wracking terraces carved into canyon walls. Barely makeable (or not, in my case) rock gardens of lava-rock and gravel. I made most of the obstacles, but I was concentrating pretty damn hard. I opted not to do the drops with bad (i.e. potentially fatal) run-outs. I also opted not to try the staircase (yes, about 200 yards of stairs...) that everyone else bombed down. At least not until I get a little more used to the bike and figure out what it can and can't do.

I also got the low down on how to get up the hill, and it sounds doable, but a bit lung singeing. From my house to the entrance of the downhill routes sounds like a good 50 minutes of serious climbing. This will take some getting used to at 12,000 feet, but look out when I get back to sea level after 10 months! There was also some mention of kids getting beat up and having their bikes taken, but no gringos or adults yet. I am told it is safest to go in groups or to go in the morning. Both Paul and Dougie ride alone, but perhaps I can connect with them a few days a week both for security, and to learn where I am going!

I look forward to finding some more amazing places on two wheels, and I'll be sure to carry my camera with me to share the view with you.